This table was made out of a kiln dried slab of pine along side three different epoxy systems available at Rockler. Penetrating Epoxy to seal the wood, Table Top Pro for a base layer of color (optional), Deep Pour epoxy for the river channel and finished with Table Top Pro because the final clear coat. See the steps below for more detailed descriptions.
First, you would like to form a mold out of melamine or MDF board. The mold must be formed to suit the live edge slab of wood. Once the mold is cut, you’ll got to apply sheathing tape to the within of the shape which can enable the epoxy to release. Insert screws on all edges to the bottom and apply silicone to all or any inside edges to make sure the mold won’t leak.
Step 1: Apply Penetrating Epoxy Sealers
Using MAS Penetrating Epoxy sealer, mix correctly at a 2:1 (two parts resin:one part hardener) into a cup and stir for 2–3 minutes. Pour mixed epoxy onto the wood and coat all sides of the wood slab employing a paint brush or by rubbing it into the wood by hand with rubber gloves on. This step will create a barrier that eliminates any bubbles or foaming when epoxy comes in to contact with the wood. Once all sides are coated with epoxy, prop them abreast of plastic cups therefore the epoxied slab doesn’t bond to your workspace. Any sort of plastic or silicone surface will work for this. Let epoxy cure overnight.
Step 2: Sand Wood Slab
Once Penetrating Epoxy has cured, using your random orbital sander, sand down all edges with 80–180 grit paper and hand sand the live edge. Main focus of this could be ensuring the highest , side and bottom are flat and therefore the live edge is lightly scuffed. confirm all sanding debris is faraway from wood slab before placing in to your mold.
Step 3: Place Wood Slab into Mold
For this river table, we wanted to feature color but not an excessive amount of that it hides the sweetness of the live edge slab and therefore the unique character it’s . Using Table Top Pro, we added two colors of pigment powder to urge our desired colour scheme which was a blue/grey color. This first layer of epoxy with pigment also will secure the slabs in situ once it starts to cure so we didn’t got to clamp, screw or silicone the slab to the mold.
Step 4: Mix and Pour Table Top Pro with Pigment
Measure Table Top Pro using the right 1:1 mix ratio and add approximately 1 tsp of color per cup, mix epoxy for five minutes. don’t pour over 1/4” of epoxy on this step. confine mind, if you’re mixing with a drill attachment the faster the combination er spins the more air bubbles you’ll whip into the mix. Use a controlled speed when mixing. Once epoxy is mixed, let it sit within the cup for 5–10 minutes to permit air bubbles to rise to the surface.
Pour epoxy into the channel of the mold and wait 10–15 minutes. employing a propane torch, apply heat 6 inches above the surface during a slow waving motion to release air bubbles. After you torch you’ll start to make your own pattern employing a mixing stick with swirl the epoxy. this is often the fun part and you’ll create a interesting pattern for you base layer. Repeat this process for the primary half-hour until the epoxy starts to gel. Once the epoxy features a syrup like consistency, swirl and apply heat one final time and canopy your piece to stay off any dust from settling.
Step 5: Mix Deep Pour Epoxy and Apply
Once the bottom layer of Table Top Epoxy has set for about 12 hrs, you’re able to apply Deep Pour Epoxy over the primary layer. Using our handy Resin Calculator, measure the size of the river channel that must be poured and therefore the calculator will tell you the precise amount of epoxy you’ll need for this layer. We mixed a full 1.3 gallon kit of Deep Pour epoxy and poured into the river channel at .5' thick. Deep Pour epoxy is mass and temperature sensitive.
The mold was 42" long and 20" wide. However, the live edge width between the slabs varied from 6" to 20". Pouring at .5" in 70F working conditions will let the epoxy cure properly and not overheat which could cause shrinking, yellowing and cracking. After 12 hrs we applied the last .5” of Deep Pour on top of this layer. Since the epoxy was poured in two .5”layers within 12 hrs of every other, the layers bond together providing a 1" thick casting with out any layer lines.
Step 6: Disassemble Mold
Once epoxy has fully cured after 24 hrs you’ll start to require apart the mold. Using your power tool , remove screws from all sides of the shape . Next, employing a mallet or hammer tap the within fringe of the mold to release the sides . Once all sides are removed you’ll got to remove the bottom from the table. employing a chisel or wedge, place the sting in between the epoxy and mold and tap the handle to separate the table from rock bottom . still do that on all sides until the table releases from the mold.
Step 7: Sand River Table
Now that we’ve the river table demolded, subsequent step is to sand all sides of the table. employing a random orbital sander with 80 grit sand paper, sand down the surface and edges of the table. Once you’ve got sanded the surface completely, wipe the surface down with ethyl alcohol and a clean rag. Using an compressor helps detach any small dust particles to make sure a clean surface. For this table we went a step further and used a hand planer for the edges to get rid of any tape or silicone marks. This made the sanding process much easier but if you do not have access to a hand planer, sanding will work fine it’ll just take a touch longer . We also routed the highest edges to offer a beveled look to the table.
Step 8: Clean Surface for Final Top Coat
With a clean rag, wipe surface down with ethyl alcohol . make certain to wipe all sides down for a clean surface. Blowing off the surface one final time with an compressor can make sure the surface is totally dust free.
Step 9: Apply Final Coat of Table Top Pro
Using our handy Resin Calculator, enter the size of the surface with an 1/8”coating and therefore the calculator will tell you exactly what proportion epoxy you’ll got to misunderstanding . Once you’ve got the quantity you would like , mix Table Top Epoxy at the right 1:1 mix ratio.
One tip that helps the blending step is warming up the Part A Resin bottle for about 5 minutes. you’ll put the sealed bottle under predicament and this may help the clarity and reduce the quantity of air bubbles while mixing. don’t warm up both Part A and Part B.
Once you’ve got your epoxy measured out, you’ll begin mixing with an influence drill or mixing stick for five minutes. Once the epoxy is fully mixed you’ll let the epoxy sit for five minutes. You’ll notice the air bubbles will rise to the surface during this point . After the epoxy has sat you’ll pour on to the surface and spread the epoxy to all or any the sides with a notched trowel or plastic spreader. When the epoxy goes over the sting , you’ll use your finger with a rubber glove on and rub the epoxy along the sides . Let the epoxy self level for 10 minutes when it’s spread on the highest of the surface. Once it’s all even you’ll begin to use heat employing a propane torch or heat gun to release the air bubbles. Apply heat every 10 minutes for the primary half-hour after the epoxy has leveled. still rub the sides together with your finger to eliminate drip marks.
Step 10: Let Epoxy Cure
Once you’ve got eliminated the surface bubbles you’ll cover the table with a bit of cardboard or some kind of protective surface which will protect the piece from any dust deciding on the epoxy while it cures. After 12 hrs the epoxy are going to be cured at 70F. The surface are going to be fully cured and prepared to be used after 7 days. don’t rest objects thereon or use it until the 7 days has passed. this might end in rings from cups or scratches on the surface. Apply a base to the table and there you go. You made your own river table!
River Table Materials:
• Dry and Flattened Wood Slab
• 1.5 Qt kit of Penetrating Epoxy Sealer
• 4 Gallon kit of Deep Pour Epoxy
• 1 Gallon Kit of Table Top Pro Epoxy
• Mica Powder or Mixol Ink (Optional)
• Mixing Cups, Sticks or Paddle Mixer
• Rubber Gloves
• Propane Blow Torch
• Random Orbital Sander
• 80–180 grit Sandpaper
• ethyl alcohol
• Notched Trowel
Mold Materials:
• Melamine or MDF for Mold
• 1/2" Screws
• Clear Silicone (DAP)
• Standard 185 ml Caulk Gun
• Sheathing Tape
• Scissors or Razorblade
• power tool
• Level
• buzz saw
• Clamps
• Safety Glasses
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